| A free-standing bookshelf can have any of the | | | | The shelves will be the same length as the |
| following features: Adjustable or stationary | | | | base shelf. |
| shelves As few or as many shelves as you want | | | | |
| With or without a back Mounted on the wall | | | | 2. Nail the top of the bookcase onto one of |
| (off the floor), attached to the wall (while | | | | the sides using 2" finishing nails. |
| on the floor, for stability), or fully | | | | |
| free-standing Elevated base or no base | | | | For now, use two nails per shelf, one an inch |
| Dimensions... Once you have decided which of | | | | or so in from each end. Apply some wood glue |
| these features you want or need, you must | | | | to the top end of sidewalls before nailing. |
| decide on your dimensions. The millions of | | | | Predrilling is helpful here, especially on |
| available plans notwithstanding, the outside | | | | the first few nails, because it gives the |
| dimensions are only as critical as the size | | | | nails a true path to follow and lessens the |
| of location you are going to place it. | | | | force needed to drive the nails in. It is |
| | | | just easier to keep the boards aligned if you |
| If there are no rigid size constraints on | | | | predrill. |
| your bookshelf, you may want to size it to | | | | |
| minimize waste. For example, one ten foot | | | | I am assuming that you don't have special |
| board will supply three 3' shelves. This | | | | clamps to hold the boards in perfect |
| gives you breathing room in your | | | | alignment. If you do, predrilling, though |
| measurements. Most boards you buy will have | | | | still desirable, is more of an option (at |
| some level of damage on the ends, or not be | | | | least with soft woods like pine). |
| cut squarely. Accept this as fact and always | | | | |
| buy boards slightly longer than needed. You | | | | 3. One, by one, starting with the uppermost |
| can always use the waste for kindling. | | | | shelf, nail them into place on the same |
| | | | sidewall. |
| As a general rule, try not to exceed a 3' to | | | | |
| 3 1/2' span between supports for adjustable | | | | 4. Locate the base shelf where you want it, |
| shelving unless you plan to load the shelves | | | | and nail it into place. If you use a 1x3 for |
| lightly. This is especially true if you use | | | | the kickboard, and it measures 21" in width, |
| particle board shelving, or a laminated | | | | then locate the bottom or the base shelf 21" |
| shelving product such as melamine shelving, | | | | from the bottom of the sidewalls. If you want |
| which has a particle board core. Particle | | | | to get really fancy, you can stand the |
| board is not as dimensionally stable when | | | | bookshelf (top and sides) up and use two |
| compared to real wood or plywood, and will | | | | pieces of the 1x3 to support the base shelf |
| gradually and permanently deform over time, | | | | in its exact location. This allows you to |
| even if not loaded very heavily. Since | | | | align it in all dimensions with no |
| stationary shelving is more easily | | | | measurement. |
| reinforced, especially if you install a back | | | | |
| on the bookshelf, this rule wouldn't apply. | | | | You can also use the 1x3 as a ruler, aligning |
| | | | it with the bottom of the sidewalls and |
| Particleboard was used for a period of time | | | | drawing a line across the upper edge of it as |
| for subflooring in new home construction. | | | | a guide for aligning the bottom of the base |
| However, if was found that the material | | | | shelf. I could list more variations, but you |
| would, over time, sag between the floor | | | | get the idea... these projects can be built |
| joists, giving a decidedly wavy appearance to | | | | many different ways, and creatively!! 5. |
| the floor. | | | | Install the other sidewall, gluing and |
| | | | nailing. |
| And forget it if you had a piano... . The | | | | |
| building code approval for this product was | | | | 6. Install the 1x3 kickboard. I usually |
| eventually modified to allow its use only if | | | | recess it a half inch or so in from the front |
| plywood was also installed to stabilize it! | | | | of the base shelf for a dramatic visual |
| About using glue... Don't overapply the | | | | effect. |
| glue!! If it does squeeze out of your joints, | | | | |
| or get anywhere else on your project, wipe it | | | | You're done!! Let the glue dry overnight, and |
| off with a warm damp sponge. Hmm... maybe | | | | apply your choice of finish to the wood. |
| I'll do that with my own weary joints later. | | | | Oh... and have fun unpacking those old dusty |
| Be even more thorough in your glue cleanup if | | | | boxes full of books!! Want to customize your |
| you are planning to stain the wood instead of | | | | bookshelf? Here are some suggestions! |
| painting. Wood glues are generally paintable, | | | | Adjustable shelving... The most flexible and |
| but can seal the wood surface and prevent | | | | fastest way is to install shelf standards |
| uniform absorption of the stain. | | | | onto the sidewalls. Shelf standards are 5/8" |
| | | | wide, 1/4" thick slotted metal strips. Small |
| Buying the wood...Check the boards you buy | | | | moveable clips lock into them to hold the |
| for width, and also for deformations such as | | | | shelves in place. They offers maximum shelf |
| warping, twisting, and cupping!! Boards are | | | | placement flexibility, and allow you to add |
| consistent in thickness, but inconsistent in | | | | or remove shelves at will!! Standards can be |
| width. If the width varies 1/8" or more, and | | | | surface mounted, or you can use a router with |
| you don't own a table saw to rip them, have | | | | a guide to cut 2 slots of appropriate width |
| the lumber yard rip them for you. Cupping is | | | | into each sidewall. Surface mounting is the |
| a bend in a board along the width. Look at | | | | easier way to go, but the recessed mounting |
| either end of the board, and notice if it is | | | | looks more finished and professional. |
| curved rather than flat. Boards that cup more | | | | |
| than a slight amount may be unusable for | | | | Both methods are equally sturdy. Though they |
| shelving. The same goes for warping, which | | | | usually come packaged with stubby little |
| would be crookedness in the board along the | | | | nails, I always use screws myself. |
| length. Anything more than slight warping is | | | | |
| unacceptable. | | | | Use the longest screws you can, in the same |
| | | | finish as the standards if possible. |
| Basic construction details... If you are | | | | |
| looking for a plan, you won't find one here. | | | | Be sure the screws do not poke through the |
| What I want to give you is basic layout | | | | outside of the bookshelf. |
| guidance. You build the bookshelf you want, | | | | |
| and I will try to help you to keep from | | | | Do all router work before assembly. |
| making the mistakes commonly made. This basic | | | | |
| approach can be modified based on your skill | | | | Putting a back on the bookshelf...Of the last |
| level and basic tools... for example, you can | | | | twenty or so simple bookshelves I have built |
| use a router to cut a slot or mortise in the | | | | for clients, none of them has a back, and all |
| sidewalls, rather than simply endnail into | | | | look just great and are plenty sturdy! The |
| the shelves... a far stronger but more | | | | point is... don't do all that extra work |
| tedious assembly procedure. | | | | putting a back on unless you really have a |
| | | | need for it!! Backing a bookshelf can be no |
| I usually pre-drill the holes prior to | | | | more complicated than cutting a piece of 1/8" |
| nailing. Simply line up the wood pieces you | | | | paneling or plywood to size and nailing it |
| wish to join, and, using a drill bit slightly | | | | onto the rear of the bookshelf. |
| smaller than the body of the nail you are | | | | |
| using, drill through the top piece and 1/4" | | | | Nailing through the back into the shelves |
| (or less) into the bottom piece. This helps | | | | increases both the rigidity of the unit and |
| to keep the pieces aligned by lowering the | | | | the weight bearing strength of the shelves. |
| hammering force needed, especially if the | | | | Be sure to square up the unit before fully |
| wood is hard or has knots, and keeps the | | | | nailing the back on. One trick is to position |
| nails travelling in a straight path. | | | | the back about where you want it, and then |
| | | | hammer one nail into the upper left or |
| Be as daring as you want! Use this as a | | | | right-hand side of the bookshelf through the |
| learning exercise for your next project. | | | | back. This is the most critical nail and |
| | | | should be perfectly placed. Using this nail |
| This simple yellow graphic depicts a | | | | as a pivot and guide, reposition and square |
| bookshelf with no back, stationary shelves, | | | | up the back to the unit (nailing the first |
| and a raised base. A power drill would be | | | | nail has most likely caused the back or the |
| helpful, but not necessary. Use 1" pine | | | | unit to change alignment), and drive in a |
| boards or any width you want. | | | | second nail. If you did this right, the unit |
| | | | is square now, so you can proceed to fully |
| This requires no more carpentry than being | | | | nail the back on. Space the nails no more |
| able to measure, use a circular saw, and use | | | | than a foot apart. |
| a hammer. | | | | |
| | | | For a more professional look, you should use |
| 1. Decide on your height and width, and cut | | | | a router to cut a notch into the back edge of |
| the sides and top. Note the relationship | | | | the sides, top, and bottom (base) shelves, so |
| between the dimensions of the unit and the | | | | that the panel can set into it. Each |
| cut boards. The sides are equal in length, | | | | stationary or moveable shelf should be |
| but 3/4" shorter than the final height | | | | trimmed in width to compensate for the depth |
| because of the thickness of the top. The | | | | of the notch. |
| length of the top is equal to the final width | | | | |
| of the unit, and 1 1/2" longer than the base | | | | All the router work is best done before |
| (lowest) shelf, to allow for the thickness of | | | | assembly. Be sure you make all your cuts on |
| the sidewalls (3/4" x 2). | | | | the correct sides of the boards, or you will |
| | | | get a grim surprise later!! |