| A free-standing bookshelf can have any of the | | | | unit, and 1 1/2" longer than the base (lowest) shelf, |
| following features: Adjustable or stationary shelves | | | | to allow for the thickness of the sidewalls (3/4" x 2). |
| As few or as many shelves as you want With or | | | | The shelves will be the same length as the base |
| without a back Mounted on the wall (off the floor), | | | | shelf. |
| attached to the wall (while on the floor, for stability), | | | | 2. Nail the top of the bookcase onto one of the sides |
| or fully free-standing Elevated base or no base | | | | using 2" finishing nails. |
| Dimensions... Once you have decided which of these | | | | For now, use two nails per shelf, one an inch or so in |
| features you want or need, you must decide on | | | | from each end. Apply some wood glue to the top |
| your dimensions. The millions of available plans | | | | end of sidewalls before nailing. Predrilling is helpful |
| notwithstanding, the outside dimensions are only as | | | | here, especially on the first few nails, because it gives |
| critical as the size of location you are going to place | | | | the nails a true path to follow and lessens the force |
| it. | | | | needed to drive the nails in. It is just easier to keep |
| If there are no rigid size constraints on your | | | | the boards aligned if you predrill. |
| bookshelf, you may want to size it to minimize | | | | I am assuming that you don't have special clamps to |
| waste. For example, one ten foot board will supply | | | | hold the boards in perfect alignment. If you do, |
| three 3' shelves. This gives you breathing room in | | | | predrilling, though still desirable, is more of an option |
| your measurements. Most boards you buy will have | | | | (at least with soft woods like pine). |
| some level of damage on the ends, or not be cut | | | | 3. One, by one, starting with the uppermost shelf, nail |
| squarely. Accept this as fact and always buy boards | | | | them into place on the same sidewall. |
| slightly longer than needed. You can always use the | | | | 4. Locate the base shelf where you want it, and nail |
| waste for kindling. | | | | it into place. If you use a 1x3 for the kickboard, and |
| As a general rule, try not to exceed a 3' to 3 1/2' | | | | it measures 21" in width, then locate the bottom or |
| span between supports for adjustable shelving unless | | | | the base shelf 21" from the bottom of the sidewalls. |
| you plan to load the shelves lightly. This is especially | | | | If you want to get really fancy, you can stand the |
| true if you use particle board shelving, or a laminated | | | | bookshelf (top and sides) up and use two pieces of |
| shelving product such as melamine shelving, which has | | | | the 1x3 to support the base shelf in its exact |
| a particle board core. Particle board is not as | | | | location. This allows you to align it in all dimensions |
| dimensionally stable when compared to real wood or | | | | with no measurement. |
| plywood, and will gradually and permanently deform | | | | You can also use the 1x3 as a ruler, aligning it with |
| over time, even if not loaded very heavily. Since | | | | the bottom of the sidewalls and drawing a line across |
| stationary shelving is more easily reinforced, especially | | | | the upper edge of it as a guide for aligning the |
| if you install a back on the bookshelf, this rule | | | | bottom of the base shelf. I could list more variations, |
| wouldn't apply. | | | | but you get the idea... these projects can be built |
| Particleboard was used for a period of time for | | | | many different ways, and creatively!! 5. Install the |
| subflooring in new home construction. However, if | | | | other sidewall, gluing and nailing. |
| was found that the material would, over time, sag | | | | 6. Install the 1x3 kickboard. I usually recess it a half |
| between the floor joists, giving a decidedly wavy | | | | inch or so in from the front of the base shelf for a |
| appearance to the floor. | | | | dramatic visual effect. |
| And forget it if you had a piano... . The building code | | | | You're done!! Let the glue dry overnight, and apply |
| approval for this product was eventually modified to | | | | your choice of finish to the wood. Oh... and have fun |
| allow its use only if plywood was also installed to | | | | unpacking those old dusty boxes full of books!! Want |
| stabilize it! About using glue... Don't overapply the glue!! | | | | to customize your bookshelf? Here are some |
| If it does squeeze out of your joints, or get | | | | suggestions! Adjustable shelving... The most flexible |
| anywhere else on your project, wipe it off with a | | | | and fastest way is to install shelf standards onto the |
| warm damp sponge. Hmm... maybe I'll do that with | | | | sidewalls. Shelf standards are 5/8" wide, 1/4" thick |
| my own weary joints later. Be even more thorough | | | | slotted metal strips. Small moveable clips lock into |
| in your glue cleanup if you are planning to stain the | | | | them to hold the shelves in place. They offers |
| wood instead of painting. Wood glues are generally | | | | maximum shelf placement flexibility, and allow you to |
| paintable, but can seal the wood surface and prevent | | | | add or remove shelves at will!! Standards can be |
| uniform absorption of the stain. | | | | surface mounted, or you can use a router with a |
| Buying the wood...Check the boards you buy for | | | | guide to cut 2 slots of appropriate width into each |
| width, and also for deformations such as warping, | | | | sidewall. Surface mounting is the easier way to go, |
| twisting, and cupping!! Boards are consistent in | | | | but the recessed mounting looks more finished and |
| thickness, but inconsistent in width. If the width | | | | professional. |
| varies 1/8" or more, and you don't own a table saw | | | | Both methods are equally sturdy. Though they usually |
| to rip them, have the lumber yard rip them for you. | | | | come packaged with stubby little nails, I always use |
| Cupping is a bend in a board along the width. Look at | | | | screws myself. |
| either end of the board, and notice if it is curved | | | | Use the longest screws you can, in the same finish |
| rather than flat. Boards that cup more than a slight | | | | as the standards if possible. |
| amount may be unusable for shelving. The same | | | | Be sure the screws do not poke through the outside |
| goes for warping, which would be crookedness in the | | | | of the bookshelf. |
| board along the length. Anything more than slight | | | | Do all router work before assembly. |
| warping is unacceptable. | | | | Putting a back on the bookshelf...Of the last twenty |
| Basic construction details... If you are looking for a | | | | or so simple bookshelves I have built for clients, none |
| plan, you won't find one here. What I want to give | | | | of them has a back, and all look just great and are |
| you is basic layout guidance. You build the bookshelf | | | | plenty sturdy! The point is... don't do all that extra |
| you want, and I will try to help you to keep from | | | | work putting a back on unless you really have a need |
| making the mistakes commonly made. This basic | | | | for it!! Backing a bookshelf can be no more |
| approach can be modified based on your skill level | | | | complicated than cutting a piece of 1/8" paneling or |
| and basic tools... for example, you can use a router to | | | | plywood to size and nailing it onto the rear of the |
| cut a slot or mortise in the sidewalls, rather than | | | | bookshelf. |
| simply endnail into the shelves... a far stronger but | | | | Nailing through the back into the shelves increases |
| more tedious assembly procedure. | | | | both the rigidity of the unit and the weight bearing |
| I usually pre-drill the holes prior to nailing. Simply line | | | | strength of the shelves. Be sure to square up the |
| up the wood pieces you wish to join, and, using a drill | | | | unit before fully nailing the back on. One trick is to |
| bit slightly smaller than the body of the nail you are | | | | position the back about where you want it, and then |
| using, drill through the top piece and 1/4" (or less) | | | | hammer one nail into the upper left or right-hand side |
| into the bottom piece. This helps to keep the pieces | | | | of the bookshelf through the back. This is the most |
| aligned by lowering the hammering force needed, | | | | critical nail and should be perfectly placed. Using this |
| especially if the wood is hard or has knots, and | | | | nail as a pivot and guide, reposition and square up the |
| keeps the nails travelling in a straight path. | | | | back to the unit (nailing the first nail has most likely |
| Be as daring as you want! Use this as a learning | | | | caused the back or the unit to change alignment), |
| exercise for your next project. | | | | and drive in a second nail. If you did this right, the |
| This simple yellow graphic depicts a bookshelf with | | | | unit is square now, so you can proceed to fully nail |
| no back, stationary shelves, and a raised base. A | | | | the back on. Space the nails no more than a foot |
| power drill would be helpful, but not necessary. Use 1" | | | | apart. |
| pine boards or any width you want. | | | | For a more professional look, you should use a router |
| This requires no more carpentry than being able to | | | | to cut a notch into the back edge of the sides, top, |
| measure, use a circular saw, and use a hammer. | | | | and bottom (base) shelves, so that the panel can set |
| 1. Decide on your height and width, and cut the sides | | | | into it. Each stationary or moveable shelf should be |
| and top. Note the relationship between the | | | | trimmed in width to compensate for the depth of |
| dimensions of the unit and the cut boards. The sides | | | | the notch. |
| are equal in length, but 3/4" shorter than the final | | | | All the router work is best done before assembly. Be |
| height because of the thickness of the top. The | | | | sure you make all your cuts on the correct sides of |
| length of the top is equal to the final width of the | | | | the boards, or you will get a grim surprise later!! |