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Planning a Second Story Addition

Planning is the key when taking on a projectprybar to free them from the rafters. My
that  involves  removing  your  roof.favorite technique is to use a 6 to 8 foot
2x4. Slip it under the loosened piece and use
Before you plan your 2nd story, research whatan adjacent rafter as a fulcrum. Push down
obstacles will need to be dealt with.on the 2x4 and up comes the plywood and
Examples of items that need to be addressedshingles. This same procedure works with
are:trusses  also.
-Size of ceiling joists, can they support aIf the roof sheathing is planks, the cuts
2nd  story  floor?should be made 48" to 64"apart. If there are
2 or mre layers of shingles, you should be
-Are mechanicals run over the top of existingable to roll these sections down the rafters.
ceiling joists? (plumbing, electRic, HVAC)
Once the roof sheathing is removed, the rest
-How much overhang is on existing roof andof the components canbe removed. If the
are  there  any utilities fastened to it.soffit and fascia haven't been removed yet,
thisis another opportunity to do so. Once
-Is the existing roof stick built(built onthat is gone the rafters can be removed. The
site)  or  a  truss roof(manufactured).rafters can be detached from the ridgeboard
by using a sledgehammer or a sawzall. After
-Is  the roof sheathing 1x boards or plywood?they are loose from the ridge, they can be
twisted  off  the  top  plate.
-How  many  layers  of  shingles  are  there?
Trusses can be a little trickier. After the
-Are there any Stacks or flues protrudingsheathing is removed,most of the truss work
through the roof such as a fireplacewill have to be cut out. The only part left
chimney,  furnace  flue,  or  vent  pipe.would be the bottom cord that holds up the
drywall ceiling. Since most of these cords
These things need to be considered so theare 2x4's, larger 2x lumber will have to be
addition can be built as quickly as possible.sistered alongside for added support. As long
as there are bearing walls below, this 2x
When starting the tearoff, the first thinglumber could be 2x10's, 2x12's or engineered
that needs to be addressedis the soffit.lumber such as I-joists. Each situation is
Removing this first will free up the rafterdifferent and what is used is spect by an
ends when it comes time to remove them.engineer  or  architect.
Sometimes utilities like the phone and
electrical lines are attached to the soffit.In most cases, the electric (conduit),
These should be moved by their respectiveplumbing and/or HVAC run over the top of the
utility  company.ceiling joists. Usually, the easiest way to
deal with this, is to build a knee wall high
Now you can tearoff the roof. The easiest wayenough for the new floor joists to clear
to remove the shingles and sheathing is withthese obstructions. This makes the second
a circular saw. It's best to use an old bladefloor deck higher so it will make your stair
with a lesser amount off teeth because itrun longer. Making sure you have room for the
will  be  trash  when  you  are  done.stairs in this instance is another
consideration.
When cutting the roof away, start at the
ridgeboard and run the saw between theOnce the deck is down, the walls, ceiling
rafters all the way to the rafter tails.joists, and roof of your new addition can
Repeat this cut every 32" from one end of thefollow.
roof to the other. These pieces, assuming
they are plywood, can be removed in 32"x 48"Whatever situation might you have, good
squares. There will still be some weight toplanning will make this taskeasier and
these pieces but this will make them morequicker. Time is of the essence when it comes
managable. Working from the ridge, theseto removing a roof. You want to protect the
squares are loosened with a sledgehammer.existing structure and all of your valuable
Once there is enough room, you can use apossesions that are left inside.



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