| Some contractors prefer to build their own door and | | | | bigger and that means that it will either need to stick |
| window headers, and these guys have been doing | | | | out on the outside or on the inside, creating |
| this for years. It seems like more people do this on | | | | problems, for the finish carpenter, drywaller or the |
| the East Coast and even in the Midwest but it is | | | | stucco and siding crews |
| rarely seen on the West Coast of the United States. | | | | There is one problem though, if you're building a new |
| As an alternative to buying a 4 x 6, you can nail two | | | | house or using plans that were approved by an |
| 2 x 6 's together, with a piece of 3/8" plywood, in | | | | architect, engineer or even your local building |
| between them and this will work fine as an | | | | department. I would advise you to contact every |
| equivalent for your new door or window header. | | | | one of them to make sure that you can actually do |
| I know what you're thinking, a 2 x 6 is an inch an | | | | this. |
| inch and a half thick and if I nailed two of them | | | | They might specify certain sized lumber for each |
| together, that would equal 3 inches. Wouldn't I need | | | | individual window and door header and you shouldn't |
| a piece of half inch plywood, to create a 3 1/2 inch | | | | stray from this. |
| door or window header? | | | | Always ask first, if you are working with approved |
| That might work sometimes, but every time I do it, | | | | building plans, to find out what you can and can't do. |
| my new window header seems to be 1/8 of an inch | | | | |